The Traditional Dress of Kasos

 

1. Kasos

Located in the Dodecanese, Kasos is the southernmost island of the Aegean. It is of rather small population while the origin of its name remains unknown. 

2. An analysis of the women's costume 

Two types of dress were prevalent on the island, each comprised by different items. The first type is the "vesta," a one-piece, urban-style dress worn for daily activities; made of cotton or another simple fabric, it was decorated on the bodice, sleeves, and hem with sewn-on ribbons and narrow handmade lace. Underneath, a petticoat was worn—slightly shorter than the dress—made of white cotton cloth, featuring a ribbon or elastic at the waist and lace trim at the hem.

The other type of outfit was the "koumasi," which was either a one-piece garment like the "vesta" or a two-piece ensemble resembling a "sakofoustano" (zaket and skirt), consisting of a "sakos" (zaket, cardigan) and a skirt. For this type of costume, it was customary to use luxurious fabrics—such as silk and taffeta—in various shades, either solid-colored or striped. They featured a high collar adorned with lace, matching the lace on the bodice and the hemline; the latter was long enough to cover the shoes, which is why young women would hold up their skirts while dancing the "Zervos"; to avoid stepping on them.

It was not difficult for the women of Kasos to acquire these luxurious fabrics, as their seafaring husbands brought them back from various parts of the Mediterranean—and especially from Constantinople. They obtained their jewelry and various costume ornaments in the same way.

The captains' wives—known as "kyrades" (ladies)—were particularly distinguished by the rich and precious ornamentation of their costumes. The costume featured wide sleeves, worn over white silk undersleeves—known as "manikites"—that were finished with broad, handmade lace ("bibila").

They also decorated the outer sleeves with "kalkania" (ribbons). On their heads, they wore a white printed headscarf—the "havli"—as an under-layer, and over it, fine, dark silk headscarves ("tsemperia") edged with intricate needle-lace, letting the ends hang loose, sometimes to the front and sometimes to the back. They wore the "chavli" while going about their daily chores. The "kyrades" would tie their hair up in a bun and wear only the dark silk headscarf ("tsemberi"), leaving their necks and earrings visible.

The jewelry worn by the women of Kasos—depending, of course, on their financial means—included: gold bracelets; gold pendant earrings known as "kampanes" ("bells"); finely crafted gold necklaces known as "yordalikia" or "kampanakia" ("little bells"); gold necklaces known as "kollaïnes"; Venetian ducats; gold sovereigns; *machmoudie* coins; gold carved "abrakamoi"; "betonia" (spherical beads) from which a diamond-set pendant hung; and a gold filigree cross known as "mermi".

- Periellados

Sources

• Κάσος: η παραδοσιακή φορεσιά του νησιού