1. Kalymnos
Kalymnos is known and billed as the "Sponge-divers' island". Sponge diving has long been a common occupation on Kalymnos and sponges were the main source of income of Kalymnians, bringing wealth to the island and making it famous throughout the Mediterranean. Unfortunately, a disease has decimated the population of sponges, forcing the people of Kalymnos to turn to a different source of income. Like most islands of Greece, tourism soon found fertile ground; however, Kalymnos has the unique identity of being a popular rock climbing location with more than 3,000 climbing routes.
The entirety of the costume derives its name from its central piece: the Kavadi.
a) Poukamisio (πουκαμίσιο)
The poukamisio, made of fine cotton or silk fabric, is characterized by its rich and intricate embroidery, particularly on the chest, sleeves, and hem. The aesthetics and motifs of the embroidery evolved over time, reflecting influences from broader cultural currents.
b) Kavadi (καβάδι)
The kavadi—which gives the entire ensemble its name—is the dominant outer garment. It is long, features wide sleeves, and is crafted from heavy, opulent fabrics, such as woven textiles or silk. The kavadi is worn open at the front, with one or both of its loose front panels lifted to reveal the decorated layers beneath. During church services or periods of mourning, it was worn closed and lowered, lending an air of sobriety to the outfit.
Throughout the various stages of the costume's evolution, three distinct types of kavadi appear; however, not all three were in use simultaneously during every period.
Everyday or "old-style" kavadi: Tailored from simple linen or striped cotton fabric, which the women themselves could weave on the loom. It represents the earliest recorded form of the garment and served as the primary outer garment during the first period of the costume's evolution.
Skoliano (Sunday/Festive) kavadi: Worn on Sundays and feast days. It was made from higher-quality fabrics—primarily imported silks, such as the renowned silks from Lyon (known locally as "Lyonia"). It was distinguished by its vibrant colors and decorative patterns—initially striped, and later featuring more complex ornamentation. It appeared during the second period of the costume's evolution but became established as a festive garment during the third period.
Politiko (Constantinopolitan-style) kavadi: The most formal garment, clearly influenced by the urban fashion of Constantinople. It was made entirely of silk—specifically luxurious brocade or other high-quality silks, often featuring gold-woven designs that signified great economic and social status. It emerged towards the end of the second period but became established—alongside the Skoliano—as a formal and festive garment during the third period of the costume's evolution.
c) Kontoyeleko (κοντογέλεκο)
The short vest was not an essential element of the attire, but it added a sense of formality and substance when worn. Reaching the waist, it was crafted from silk or velvet fabrics and richly decorated with gold braid and galloons.
d) Nedreiki zone (νεδρείκη ζώνη)
At the waist, over the kavadi, a distinctive silk sash known as the "Nendreiki" or "Nidreiki" sash is worn. The name is linked to the island of Hydra (derived from the colloquial Ydraiiki), as similar multicolored sashes were produced on Hydriot looms and widely traded across the Aegean. This sash consists of a long strip of multicolored, striped woven silk fabric featuring tassels at the ends. The tassels hang decoratively, while the central section of the belt—which is concealed once wrapped—is solid-colored, likely to economize on material. The belt is wrapped tightly two or more times around the upper waist, covering the abdomen like a broad cummerbund, and is tied at the back. The tasseled ends hang freely down the back, forming a decorative train. This colorful belt is a key aesthetic element, adding color while securing the lifted folds of the kavadi. For daily wear, women wore a simpler belt made of stiff, black woven fabric, wrapped twice around the waist.
e) Socks and shoes (κάλτσες και υποδήματα)
Socks were made of wool or cotton, usually in white or a vibrant red, and were often hand-knitted. The shoes were low-cut and made of black or brown leather, featuring a simple design and minimal ornamentation—suitable for the rugged terrain and the demands of daily life.
f) Kephalodesmos (κεφαλόδεσμος)
The headwear arrangement was originally a complex construction but became considerably simpler over time. It varied depending on the specific period of the costume's evolution and the woman's marital status. In the past, it consisted of a small, close-fitting cap, a solid-colored silk headscarf, and a large tsemberi (shawl) featuring an "eagle" motif. The style of tying—whether at the nape of the neck, at the side, with one end left loose, or under the chin—conveyed social information and shifted with changing fashions and seasons.
g) Jewerly-Armatsa (κοσμήματα-αρματσά)
The jewelry associated with Kalymnian traditional dress was striking. In addition to the customary gold or silver coins, women wore crosses, earrings, and brooches—often made of silver and decorated with enamel or gemstones. These pieces served as a form of dowry and a symbol of wealth, while also possessing a protective function, as they were believed to ward off evil, the evil eye or negative influences.
- Periellados
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