The Traditional Dress of Anogeia

 

1. Anogeia

   Located fifty-four kilometres from Rethymno, Anogeia is a small city of 2200 people; its name, ano geia (= "above earth") is derived from its location. At an altitude of 730 metres and on the ridge of Psyloreitis, the tallest mountain of Crete, Anogeia is also near the Idaio Antro, the cave where, during antiquity, the ancient believed to be the place where Zeus grew up in secret from his father, Kronos. 

2. An analysis of the women's costume

   The ensemble is named Sartza, after the unique half-apron worn and tied at the back of the costume. It emerged during the mid-17th century and served as the everyday and formal attire for women, regardless of age. It was typically worn by the psikaroudes—the young women who made up the bride's retinue, known as the psiki. Its use was not limited to the Anogeia area but extended to other regions of central Crete as well. 

a) Kamis ('καμίς)

   The chemise is woven—made of silk or cotton—usually creme and reached the calf; it typically features embroidery at the sleeve cuffs. 

b) Vraka/Salvari (βράκα/σαλβάρι - απομεσόρουχο)

   Α set of wide pants gathered at the ankle. 

c) Katinaki (κατινάκι)

   Α dress which is gathered at the waist and has long, wide sleeves.

d) Ziponi/kontohi (ζιπόνι/κοντόχι)

   Worn over the shirt is the ziponi, a short fitted vest/jacket, made of felt. It comes in various colors (black, brown, blue, gold, burgundy, etc.). It features gold embroidery, a wide opening at the front, and fastens at a single point at the bottom.

e) Sartza (σάρτζα - σακοφούστανο)

   Α red pleated felt apron, which is tied at the front with a red ribbon and folded at the back - as for the edges to be tucked under the ribbon. 

   The word sartza refers to a type of fabric—specifically, common wool felt. The term evidently originated from the Arab emirate of Sharjah (or Sharika), either because the original fabrics used to create the sartza (apron) were manufactured there, or because local women in that region wore a similar type of skirt-apron.

f) Zonari (ζωνάρι)

Α stripped fabric belt with fringes at the edge.

g) Mprostopodia (μπροστοπόδια)

Α beige apron with geometric folk patterns at the bottom. 

h) Chrysa (χρυσά)

   A black fabric strips with coins sewn onto them, that are pinned across the neckline of the ziponi.

i) Tsemperi/Yiemeni (τσεμπέρι/γιεμενί)

Α red or crimson headscarf; its one side was adorned with yellow tassels. 

j) Flouria (φλουριά)

Α string of coins worn as jewelry.

- Periellados

Sources: 

--ΑΝΩΓΕΙΑΝΗ ΦΟΡΕΣΙΑ - ΝΤΥΣΙΜΟ

--Δήμητρα Κτιστάκη-Καρκάνη

-- ΟΙ ΚΡΗΤΙΚΕΣ ΦΟΡΕΣΙΕΣ